Cleaning Tips and Articles
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How to clean and care for your jewelry
The trick to keeping jewelry at its best is keeping it clean. If jewelry is left for years or even months without a good cleaning or brushing, it can look dull and uninviting. Keep it looking brand new with these simple steps:
For Starters
Separate your good (real) jewelry from your costume jewelry. If you have two jewelry boxes use both of them for this purpose. Make sure your jewelry is organized by kind. Keep bracelets with bracelets and rings with rings, etc. Be sure to check your necklace collection from time to time. Necklaces tend to get entwined with other necklaces. It can be a very frustrating task to untangle them if they get entwined. If you have the type of jewelry box that allows you to “hang” necklaces, this is probably the most sensible way to deal with necklaces and beads.
Types of Jewelry Cleaners
There are generally four to five “types” of jewelry cleaners: chemical (from jewelry store), cloth, natural/store bought, and good old-fashioned toothpaste. Out of all of these types of cleaners, toothpaste is the most inexpensive and effective. Plus, toothpaste will not harm any type of jewelry in any way. If it’s good enough for your pearly whites, then it’s good enough for your gems. It has also been recommended on home shopping clubs that sell jewelry and as a “jewelry tip.”
Caring for Rings
Rings are very noticeable and precious. Sometimes, you will see that your gem or stone is getting “cloudy” and unnoticeable. This is the result of hand creams, dirt, lint and soap buildup. It happens to almost all rings and can be easily reversed. If you have a pearl, mother of pearl, or opal stone do not immerse it in the chemical cleansers; natural stones should not be immersed this way. A good jewelry cloth bought from your jewelers is probably the best bet. All other rings, diamonds, or faux gems may be put into cleaners or scrubbed with a small brush covered in toothpaste. Rinse well with cold water. Also, if using a jewelry cleaner, make sure you rinse well with water when you’re through. Any cleaner residue will definitely “yellow” your stones.
Caring for Necklaces
Necklaces probably take the most work to clean and make bright again. It’s because they tend to be intricate in design or just plain delicate. The best bet for necklaces is a cloth or jewelry cleaner. A jewerly cleaner makes it easier to clean all the parts you want to. But, it doesn’t allow you to buff up the necklace and make it shine again. This is where the cloth comes in. Either way, this takes some work and a small set of fingers. The smaller the better. It is a detailed job that offers some nice rewards if done right. Use both the cloth and cleaner if needed.
Caring for Bracelets
Bracelets tend not to get very dirty or discolored. The problem with bracelets is that they typically tend to get scratched, dented, or bent. Just be careful with your bracelets. If you tend to be hard on your jewelry, try looking into purchasing the “flexible” types of bracelets that move with you.
How do I shine my shoes?
Shining your shoes on a routine basis is a process that you should perform in order to prolong the life of your shoes. Typically, you should shine your shoes at least once a week to enhance their appearance and extend their wear.
The basic rule for shining leather shoes is that the shoes should be thoroughly dry before beginning the cleaning and shining process. If your shoes are wet, they will not be able to absorb the shoe creams properly and you will not be able to polish them correctly. Additionally, the shoes will have a dull finish if polished when wet. When cleaning and polishing your shoes, you will need a standard set of tools. These tools include the following:
-A coarse brush that is specifically made for removing dirt from shoes. This type of brush can be purchased in a shoe or variety store. Note that this brush type features a scraping edge on one side of it that is used to remove stubborn dirt from the shoes.
-Several clean cloths to remove dust and dirt.
-Shoe creams that match the colors of your shoes. Make sure that the creams contain a wax additive that will repel water from the shoes. Additionally, do not use creams that contain acrylic additives because these additives tend to form deposits on leather shoes and will cause the leather to crack.
-An application brush or cloth used to apply the shoe cream.
-A soft, yet thick, bristle brush to perform final shoe polishing.
To begin cleaning your shoes, take a shoe and use the coarse brush to remove any excess dirt and dust from the shoe. If there are any heavy deposits of dirt or mud on the shoe, use the brush's scraping edge to remove the caked-on dirt. Once all surface dirt has been eliminated, take a clean cloth and remove any remaining residue. Do not place any water on the cloth, or on the shoe, to remove the dirt. Next, take the application brush/cloth and dip it lightly into the shoe cream. Apply the show cream to the shoe, in an even coat, making sure that it covers the whole shoe including any crevices. It is important that the cream be applied as close as possible to the shoe's sole. If the color of the sole differs from the shoe's body, avoid getting the cream on the sole. Otherwise, if the shoe's body and sole are the same color, apply the cream on the sole as well. After the cream is applied, set the shoe aside to allow the cream to soak into the shoe. This process should take approximately 10-15 minutes.
Once the allotted time has passed, take the soft brush and start polishing the shoe. To polish a shoe, place your hand in the shoe and swiftly brush the shoe back and forth using quick, yet firm, strokes. You will know when the shoe is polished when its finish changes from dull to shiny. Because you are removing shoe cream from a shoe as you are polishing it, it is important that you use separate soft polishing brushes for each color of shoes that you have. Not using separate brushes causes the colors to mix resulting in discoloration of your shoes. After you have polished your shoe with the brush, check it for any streaks that may remain. To remove these streaks, take another clean cloth and rub them on the streaks to remove them from the shoe. The polishing process is complete.
This shoe cleaning and polishing process may differ for shoes made from leather variations as well as for shoes made from other materials. For example, patent leather shoes usually require only a good cloth cleaning to remove any dirt from them and to create a shine. Meanwhile, shoes made from suede usually require special suede cleaning brushes and solutions in order to clean them properly. Finally, for cloth, plastic and rubber shoes, plain soap and water can be used to remove surface dirt. Once cleaned, however, these shoe types must be allowed to dry before wearing.
It is important to take care of your shoes by cleaning and polishing them properly. By doing so, your shoes will look brand new and you will be prolonging their life indefinitely.
Leather care tips
There are various types and grades of leathers, each serving a different purpose. Some require a bit more maintenance than others, but all follow a set guideline of care to ensure a longer life.
There are four stages in leather care that include cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and protection. When perusing the store shelves for a product that fits your needs, be watchful for what kind of product you're purchasing. It can be confusing to try and figure out which product is for which stage, but look for words that explain how the product is to be used. It is also important to remember to work on your leather in a well-ventilated area. Some leather care products are very strong and can cause irritations.
Cleaning
To clean a leather item, first choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. For example, saddle soap is a commonly used product for equestrian tack. It is meant to be used as a cleaner and a protector from moisture, but it strips the leather of the oils in the process of attempting to do two jobs at once. The cleaner of your choice should not leave any greasy residue behind. Residue makes leather susceptible to bacteria and can break down the stitching of your item. Before applying anything to your leather item, be certain to test it out for effect and possible color distortion on an area that isn't visible to the eye. Once you've ascertained whether the leather care product is acceptable to use, apply it to your item. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove the cleaning product. For areas with stitches, there are brushes available on the market. Another cleaning product to consider having in your leather care collection is a nubuck cleaning cloth. They have an astonishing ability to clean and restore leather to its original look.
Conditioning
Leather conditioners are meant for occasional use. They contain fats and/or oils that help lubricate leather and replenish the suppleness. Look for a product that will penetrate the strong fibers in leather, but beware of any that include petroleum or mineral oils. While petroleum by-products won't damage your leather immediately, they do over a period of time. Again, just as with cleaning, keep on the look out for thick, greasy conditioning treatments for the best care of your leather.
Polishing
Polishing is done for special occasions when you want a more glossy finish on your leather. There are a couple things to be wary of when purchasing a polishing agent. Some products contain coloring factors that will brush off on things you come in contact with. Some products also have a tendency to clog the pores in leather or dry leather out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out the product on a small area and when ready, buff to a shine.
Protection
Moisture barriers are extremely crucial in preventing rain or other liquid hazards from damaging leather. Stiffness and spouting will happen if leather isn't protected beforehand. There is a drawback in protecting leather with a moisture barrier product. They tend to fill in the pores with a greasiness that makes cleaning, conditioning, and polishing difficult, but it's a necessary process to ensure leather isn't destroyed. Periodically apply a moisture barrier and allow it time to penetrate and dry before using your leather item.
Removing Mildew
To remove mildew from leather, create a mixture of one-cup rubbing alcohol per one-cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol, then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then remove with a clean dampened cloth and allow to dry.
Wet Leather
An important key to keeping leather in top-notch condition is to treat wet leather before it has a chance to dry. Remove any dirt, mud, or other stains with a cleaning agent, then condition while the pores are still fully responsive. It is critical to remember that leather should be dried away from heat. If the leather in question is a garment, it's a good idea to stuff the garment to retain shape.
Storing Leather
Remember that leather is a natural material and should never be stored in plastic because it encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria and will ruin the leather. Always store leather in a cool, dry place away from heat. If the leather item is a garment, store in a breathable bag.
Removing Stains
Fresh stains from things such as blood and food can be cleaned up quickly with a damp cloth. Stains from oil or grease can be lifted by grinding ordinary blackboard chalk, sprinkling the area, and leaving the powder on for a twenty-four hour period. Resist the urge to rub the powder in. After a sufficient time has past, simply use a leather care brush to remove the powder. While fresh stains can be treated and cleaned at home, ground-in stains should be attended to by a professional cleaner who deals in leather.
4. Source: http://papa.essortment.com/removingstainc_rcnf.htm
Home remedies for removing tough stains from clothing
Removing stains from clothing can be a costly thing. Here are a few techniques that can be done with items you may already have at home.
INK
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1. Treat a thick, white towel with hair spray. Dab the effected area and blot with a dry towel simultaneously.
or
- Treat a thick, white towel with Ispropyl Rubbing Alcohol. Dab the affected area and blot with a dry towel simultaneously.
BLOOD STAINS
Dried Blood:
Mix one teaspoon of a mild laundry detergent with a cup of ice cold water. Blot on affected area with a towel. You can also use one tablespoon of household ammonia mixed with half cup of ice cold water. Blot with a clean towel. Sponge with clean ice cold water.
Fresh Blood:
Sponge stain immediately with cold water or club soda and dry with a clean absorbant towel. Repeat as necessary until desired results are reached.
COFFEE or SODA POP
Mix one teaspoon of a mild detergent with a cup of lukewarm water. Blot the area with a clean towel. Mix one third cup of white household vinegar with two thirds cups water. Blot with clean towel. Sponge with clean water. Blot dry.
MARGARINE OR HAND LOTION
Sponge the area with a amall amount of dry cleaning solvent such as Energine (found in your local grocery store). Blot area. Mix one teaspoon of a mild detergent with cup of lukewarm water. Blot area. Sponge with clean water. Blot till dry.
TOMATO SAUCE, SALSA, CATSUP, SOY SAUCE
Mix one teaspoon of mild detergent with cup of lukewarm water. Blot area. Mix one tablespoon of household ammonia with half cup of water. Blot area. Sponge with clean water. Blot excess residue.
CRAYONS OR CANDLEWAX
Carefully scrape or lift off as much solid matter as possible. Be careful not to spread the stain. Next, fill a zipper type freezer bag with ice and rest it over the affected area for several minutes. Repeat this process until you have removed as much of the matter as possible. Then use your hair dryer (on "hi" setting) to soften the residue that is left. After the residue is heated, carefully scrape as much solid matter as possible using a thick paper towel. Repeat these processes as necessary.
LIPSTICK
Rub in vegetable or mineral oil onto affected area and allow it to soak for approximately 15 minutes. Blot excess oils with an absorbent paper towel. Then sponge in solution of 50% water and 50% ammonia (do not use on wool or silk). Rinse thoroughly and wring excess. Sponge remaining affected areas liberally with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Apply laundry pre-treat and launder in hot water. Remember when removing stains to always pretest on a small indescreet area for color fading in the fabric.
Some helpful miscellaneous household hints and tips for various parts of the house.
HOUSEHOLD HINTS--ROOM BY ROOM
MISCELLANEOUS
* To make a homemade wood filler that bonds as well as commercial wood dough, mix fine sawdust with glue. Use this immediately to fill holes and cracks. It will be clear when it hardens, and can be sanded and then sealed with varnish or painted.
* To clean dirty photographs, wipe them lightly with absorbent cotton dipped in alcohol.
* Use a large cork to hold loose thumbtacks.
* Remove the brushes from your old hair rollers and use them to support a flower arrangement in a vase.
* Fold and bind newspapers, then cover them with fabric. Great for booster seats or to use on the patio.
* Scotch tape won't stick to the roll, or be wasted by folding it over, if you stick a small button under the loose end.
* If you want to drive a nail into a hard-to-reach spot, press a wad of modeling clay on the surface, insert the nail, then start hammering. Remove the clay when the nail is secure.
* If the lights go out, you will easily be able to find a fuse if you have one taped to the inside of the fuse-box door.
* A strip of aluminum foil pressed over the rim of an open paint can will keep the groove clean while you are painting. The can will then be easy to close and reopen.
* When painting a stairway that is in constant use, paint every other step and let them dry well. Then paint the alternate steps. Meanwhile you'll get some good exercise going up and down two stairs at a time.
* No ruler? Use a dollar bill. The bill is 1/8 in. more than 6 in. in length. Not perfect, but close enough in a pinch.
* A drop or two of ammonia on a rusty screw that won't come out will loosen it.
* Spread newly cut grass on a dirty garage floor and let it stand for several hours before sweeping. Musty, oily odors will disappear.
* A large pine cone spread with a mixture of peanut butter, corn meal, and grain cereals makes an exciting bird feeder. Hang it outside a window and watch the birds feeding closeup.
* Use cotton swabs for applying your eye makeup. You will always have a clean applicator.
* Salad oil removes tar from feet.
* Dig your nails into a bar of soap before doing dirty work. This will prevent dirt from getting under them.
* Cover often-used clothing patterns with clear contact paper to keep the pieces from tearing. They will lie flat and can be cut around more easily.
* Use the shavings from the pencil sharpener, or fresh kitty litter, to fill your pincushion. The graphite from the lead will keep your pins rustfree.
* As a special gift for Grandma, trace a child's drawing onto a white apron and add the child's signature. Then embroider it, or use liquid embroidery, in the original colors the child used.
* Golf tees glued to the bottom of an empty box make great thread-spool holders.
* Use newspapers to dry windows and mirrors after spraying. Printer's ink leaves a protective coating on the glass that makes it shine. Plus, you'll save the cost of paper towels.
* Use fluorescent bulbs wherever possible. A 40-watt fluorescent gives twice the light of a 100-watt incandescent and uses less electricity.
* You can make your own custom-styled wrapping paper. Tear off two sheets of waxed paper, then cut out pictures from a magazine. Gently press them between the sheets of waxed paper using a warm iron. You'll be surprised at the pretty wrappings you've designed. You won't need ribbons; just seal the ends with the warm iron.
* To postpone the mending of new jeans, install an iron-on patch inside the knee areas before the first wearing. The pants will wear longer and will not need mending for a long time.
* To avoid retying shoelaces, wipe them with a wet cloth before you tie them. They'll stay tied all day.
* To protect your garden tools from rusting, add some motor oil to a pail of sand. After using your tools, plunge them into the sand once or twice. Especially good if the tools are damp after use.
* Catch rainwater to water your house plants with. They will become much healthier. Great for washing your hair, too.
* Save short pieces of yarn and thread to decorate new homes for baby birds. In the springtime, scatter these colorful bits on the shrubs around your home for the birds to use in building their nests.
* When presenting a handmade gift, include any leftover material or yarn. Also include washing instructions and extra buttons.
Some helpful household hints and tips for the kitchen.
HOUSEHOLD HINTS--ROOM BY ROOM
KITCHEN
* Putting an extra handle on your kitchen screen door, down low enough for your toddler to reach, will eliminate your having to open the door each time the child wants in or out.
* To measure spaghetti without a scale, wrap a tape measure or a marked piece of string around a bundle of spaghetti and use this table:
2 oz. = 2 1/2-in. bundle
4 oz. = 3 1/2-in. bundle
8 oz. = 4 1/2-in. bundle
12 oz. = 5 1/2-in. bundle
1 lb. = 6 1/2-in. bundle
* When you boil milk, you can keep it from scorching if you rinse out the pan with cold water before adding milk.
* For vegetarians who like gravy with their meals: Save the water from cooking vegetables and thicken with cream and peanut butter. A very old application for a modern-day trend.
* To remove the silk strands from fresh corn on the cob, wipe the ears with a damp paper towel.
* To locate the spice you need quickly, arrange the jars alphabetically on the shelf.
* To make a tasty summer soup from leftover vegetables, puree them in a blender with a little tomato juice until smooth. Chill well and serve with a thin slice of lemon as a garnish.
* When in doubt, do not stir a cold mixture into hot liquid. Mix a little of the hot liquid into the cold mixture first, to warm it. Then blend it into the hot liquid. This eliminates lumps and curdles.
* To keep hard-boiled eggs from cracking and overcooking to the rubber-ball stage, start them in cold water and simmer gently for 15 minutes. After cooking, rinse them immediately under cold water. This will keep the yolks from turning green and will loosen the shells.
* Save your empty egg shell halves to start seeds. Put the shells into the open egg carton so they can be moved into the sunlight easily. When ready to transplant, just plant the seedlings--shell and all. The shells will decompose and supply fertilizer at the same time.
* Soak lemons, oranges, and limes in warm water before squeezing to get more juice. Rolling and pressing them on the sink first also helps produce more juice.
* You can revive limp celery, lettuce, and carrots by soaking them in ice water for an hour. Add a teaspoon of sugar or honey to freshen the flavor.
* It's easy to keep a ball of twine unsnarled and ready for use if you hang up a large funnel, place the ball of twine inside, and push the free end of string down through the spout. For a bright accent in your kitchen, make a colorful macrame holder for the funnel.
* To soften a hard stick of butter, invert a heated bowl over the stick for a few minutes.
* When a jar cover sticks, run hot water over the lid for a minute. It should then open easily.
* When dropping cookie dough from a spoon, wet the spoon in milk and the dough will not stick to the spoon.
* To bake potatoes faster, stand them on end in muffin cups. Be sure to put water in any empty cups.
* Slip a section of a plastic soda straw over the end of the tube inside your spray bottle of window cleaner to reach the fluid left at the bottom.
* Before baking a pie shell, rinse the pan with cold water to keep the pastry from sliding down the side of the tin during baking.
* A portable hair dryer can be used to defrost your freezer quickly. Warm air directed into the freezing compartment melts the frost in 10 to 15 minutes.
* For the quickest and best bread crumbs, grate frozen bread slices. Start tossing the ends of the loaf and stale slices into the freezer, instead of the garbage, and save money.
* Use old coffee grounds on top of the soil in your house plants for a mulch that will add nitrogen to the soil.
* Do not add salt when cooking dried beans. Salt toughens beans and prolongs the cooking time required. If salt is desired, add it after the beans are cooked.
* If you have scorched the inside of a saucepan, don't despair. Fill it halfway with water, add 1/4 cup baking soda, and boil awhile. The burned food will loosen and float to the top of the water.
* Save scraps of soap in a pan. When 3/4 full, fill the pan with boiling water; add the juice of one lemon and one teaspoon of glycerin. This will make a cleansing jelly that will whiten and soften your hands.
* If you don't have a corkscrew, drive two nails into the cork to be removed, not too near the edge, lay a large nail horizontally between them, and use the large nail to turn.
* Candles will last longer if you chill them thoroughly before burning them. They will burn more slowly and drip less.
* The plastic tabs from some bread wrappers can be used to keep your embroidery or crewel floss separated and neat. You can write color-chart numbers on the tabs with a felt-tipped marker.
Some helpful household hints and tips for laundry and cleaning clothes.
HOUSEHOLD HINTS--ROOM BY ROOM
LAUNDRY
* Here's a convenient way to dry wet sneakers. Fold a wire coat-hanger in half (pointed ends together). Slip the sneakers over the protruding bottom wires and hang up in a ventilated area to dry. (Never dry sneakers in the dryer. They are certain to shrink, and the toes will curl up.)
* After washing mittens, turn them inside out and brush to fluff up the nap. This makes mittens warmer and more water-repellent.
* To use bleach or not to use bleach? That question can be answered by making a mixture of 1 tablespoonful of bleach and 1/4 cup of water. Put a drop or two on a seam inside the garment, leave for a minute, then blot dry with a paper towel. No change in color means you can use bleach. If it fades only slightly, you can use bleach two or three times, when you need to remove a stubborn stain.
* Soak colored items that "bleed" into the wash water for 24 hours in a solution of 4 tablespoons salt to each quart of water. Rinse in vinegar water. Colors will stay put from then on.
* If you pour too much detergent into the washer, sprinkle salt on the suds to settle the bubbles. Excess suds keep the clothes from agitating freely.
* If you hang clothes outside in the winter, you can prevent them from freezing to the line by adding 1/4 cup of salt to the last rinse water.
* You can wash your nylon stockings in the washer if you stuff them into a nylon bag. Use an old stocking as a bag, knotting the end to close it. Never put your nylons in the dryer.
* Launder bras and slips inside a pillowcase, closed with safety pins. This will keep the straps from getting tangled around other clothes. Prevents your having to replace straps and hooks.
* Water from a spray bottle works better than a steam iron. Dampen only the area that needs it.
* When you've let down the hem on a garment made of wool or a synthetic fabric, apply white vinegar with a small sponge to the wrong side of the fabric and steam-press. This will remove the shine as well as the crease left by the old hem.
* To remove bubble gum from clothing, place the garment in the freezer. Once the gum has hardened, it should peel off cleanly.
* To remove mildew from cloth, moisten the area with a paste made of lemon juice and salt. Then lay the item in the sun to bleach.
* Perspiration stain is not easy to remove unless you apply a thick coat of paste made from baking soda and water. Leave this paste on for 15 minutes. Then rinse and wash the garment as usual.
* For rust stains, rub on lemon juice and salt made into a paste. Let this stand until thoroughly dry. Rinse. Repeat if necessary.
* Never hang clothing in the closet until it is thoroughly dry. An unventilated closet can cause staining.
* Save your washer from breakdowns. Every three or four months, clean out your machine by adding a quart of white vinegar to a tubful of warm water and running the machine through a full cycle, without a load of clothes.
* A plumbing tip which will prevent costly repairs: Every month, open the spigot at the bottom of your hot-water heater and drain the water into a bucket until it runs clear. This cleans out rust and corrosion that can eat away the bottom of the tank.
* A different gift for the bride-to-be? Fill a laundry basket with individually wrapped kitchen and laundry items: soaps, cleansers, clothes-pins, scouring pads, dish towels, bleach, etc.
BEDROOM
* To avoid pulling dresser drawers out too far, paint a warning mark on the top of the sides of the drawer. When you see the marks, you'll stop before you spill the contents on the floor.
* Shoe boxes stored on high shelves are easier to take down if a small finger hole is cut in the front of each box near the bottom.
* Grandma knew how to mothproof without using smelly camphor. She just lined boxes with newspapers, overlapping them carefully. Then the folded garments were wrapped separately, sealed with tape, and labeled for easy identification. These packages could be stored in any dry place and be safe from moths. Seems that moths dislike the taste of printer's ink and will not touch clothes packed in this manner.
* Wire coat hangers can easily hold skirts or pants if you use clip-type clothespins along the bottom of the hanger. Very simple for children to use.
* To help children distinguish between their own clothing and that of other children in the family, color-code all hangers with colored tape and assign each child a color. For socks, T-shirts, and underwear, a stitch or two of thread of the same color will do the trick. (Helps you as you sort the laundry, too.)
* To save time making beds, stitch the bottom corners of your bedspread together like a contour sheet, so it fits the mattress. This saves running from one side of the bed to the other to straighten the spread.
* To eliminate opening sheets to see their size, buy each size in a different color.
Carpet care tips
As a floor covering, carpeting is subject to quite a beating day in and day out. Most carpets have to be replaced prematurely because of inadequate care. Without proper care the carpet begins to look dirty and faded and the fibers start to lose their fullness. High traffic areas become limp or flat.
Basic Carpet Maintenance
Vacuuming carpets frequently and thoroughly is probably the most important factor in carpet care. Dirt works its way down into the fibers of the carpet where it acts like sandpaper, grinding away at each tuft, leaving it limp and dull. Dirt also combines with oil residues carried through the air and eventually glues itself to the carpet.
Regular vacuuming prevents both problems. Most experts agree that carpets should be thoroughly vacuumed about once a week, with heavy traffic areas being vacuumed more often.
Carpet Stains
Whenever spills occur on carpet, time is of the essence. The sooner it is cleaned up, the easier it will be to do so. Don't be fooled by spills that are clear or are the same color as the carpet: these can change color over time and become visible stains.
The first step in spot cleaning is to blot up the liquid using white paper towels or tissues. Do not add any liquids at this point, as they will only make the spot larger and help it sink deeper into the carpet. Absorb as much liquid as possible.
If a special cleaning solution is involved, test it on an inconspicuous part of the carpet first. Place a few drops of the cleaning solution on the stain and then place a white paper towel on top. Wait 10 to 15 seconds and check whether any of the carpet dyes have seeped through to your towel. If this happens, it's best to call a professional.
Assuming nothing went wrong with your test, keep in mind these additional stain-removing tips:
- Use the least amount of solution possible.
- Work from the outside of the stain toward the center to avoid spreading the stain.
- Don't rub the carpet too hard or you may damage fibers.
- Make sure the carpet can dry quickly, using a fan if necessary.
If your efforts are unsuccessful, call a pro right away. Failure to act quickly will increase the odds of a permanent stain.
Keep in mind that not all stains can be removed. Bleached areas, whether caused by sunlight or liquid bleach, cannot really be addressed. In theory, a professional can re-dye those sections, but don't count on a perfect color match.
Urine, if allowed to dry, also leaves a permanent stain. Stains from foods that have a lot of food coloring, such as Kool Aid, mustard or grape soda, are often impossible to remove. The only chance you have of avoiding a permanent stain with these colored food items is to act very quickly when the spill occurs.
Many stains containing sugar attract dirt so effectively that if the attracted dirt is similar in color to the carpet, the underlying stain is completely hidden until cleaning. Then, with all the camouflaging dirt removed, the underlying stain becomes obvious and appears to be "new."
Remember, even if you vacuum regularly and spot clean as needed, you will eventually need to have your carpet cleaned. Ideally, your carpet should be professionally cleaned every year to 18 months.
David Hollies is a remodeling industry educator and consultant. He is also the founder of Washington D.C.-based Home Connections, Inc.
Checklist: Spring Cleaning
The joy of emerging from your home after a few cool months can quickly be negated when you see the things in need of repair. This list can help keep your spring cleaning projects in order. And, if you're still feeling overwhelmed, consider calling on professional help in the form of an organizer, maid service or interior decorator.
Indoors
Check the walls and woodwork. Repaint dark woodwork with a brighter color.
Make a list of anything that needs painting or staining.
Have your air conditioner or evaporative cooler serviced and replace all filters.
Have ducts and vents professionally cleaned.
Identify the small things like leaky faucets or loose cabinet doors. Hire a handyman to make all repairs at the same time to avoid multiple visits.
Clean or replace grout or caulk in bathrooms.
Get your carpets professionally cleaned.
If you incurred ice dams on your roof in winter, call a roofing contractor to install new roof vents.
Dust and clean light fixtures and ceiling fans.
An attic or whole house fan might be an appropriate solution for drawing warm air from the lower levels of your home.
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Outdoors
Inspect the entire exterior of your house.
On wood siding and trim, look for paint that is lifting or peeling, for splitting wood or areas where the wood grain is separating ("checking") from water getting into the wood.
Hiring a professional painter to waterproof and paint your house now will fill gaps and help your wood siding and trim last longer, saving you money in the long run.
On stucco, if you can rub a chalky residue onto your hand, oxidation of the paint or color coat is reducing the stucco's insulating value.
Sweep off all spider webs and dirt from the exterior window sills and clean the glass.
Remove storm windows or doors, and replace with clean screens.
Power wash, sand and reseal your deck before it is exposed to the heat.
Replace splintered or worn deck boards.
If you are thinking of adding a porch or deck, now is the time to call a professional before the rush of the season causes them to get booked up.
If necessary, make plans now to install a new sprinkler system> or walkway.
Attend to landscaping by spreading mulch around shrubs and flowerbeds for a clean looking yard.
Remove debris that may have settled in gutters during winter.
Ensure that the downspouts are directing water away from the foundation> of your house.
Look at the roof for loose or damaged shingles and contact a roofing contractor for repairs.
How to Clean Beer From Carpet
Introduction
One hundred bottles of beer on the wall, and then one fell ...
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Apply a small amount of mild liquid detergent directly to the stain.
2
Step Two
Blot with a dry, white cloth.
3
Step Three
Flood the stain with ammonia.
4
Step Four
Blot again with the cloth.
5
Step Five
Flood the stain again, this time with white vinegar.
6
Step Six
Blot again with the cloth.
7
Step Seven
Apply a little more liquid detergent to the stain.
8
Step Eight
Blot again with the cloth.
9
Step Nine
Flood once more with water.
10
Step Ten
Blot one last time.
Tips & Warnings
- Always test the cleaning solutions on an inconspicuous part of the carpet before applying them to a large area.
- Use a white cloth rather than a colored one to prevent any dyes from coming off on the carpet. Don't rub.
- As you blot, keep turning the cloth so that you are using a clean, dry section to pick up the stain and cleaning fluids from the carpet.
- If using a brush to help clean the stain, always brush from the outer edges of the spill inward to prevent the stain from spreading.
How to Remove Gravy Stains From a Tablecloth
Introduction
A beautiful table setting can really set the mood for a dinner party especially on holidays such as Thanksgiving. Beautiful table linens, the best china and tasty food lets all your guests be in a great mood. Eyeing a big turkey with gravy can make anyone's mouth water, but your eyes seem to water when you see all the gravy stains on your beautiful tablecloth. Thankfully, with a little grease-fighting dishwashing liquid, those gravy stains will be gone in a jiffy.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Remove your tablecloth from the table and shake it out. This will remove any loose food that was on the cloth. I recommend going outside to shake it out so you do not have any crumbs to clean up. Lay the tablecloth on a flat, clean surface wrong side up. You should be looking at the underside of the stains when it is laying down.
2
Step Two
You will need about 1/8 to 1/4 cup of grease-fighting dishwashing liquid to remove the stains. Take a small toothbrush and dip it into the liquid. Take the toothbrush and gently brush the liquid onto the stains. Brush lightly so the fabric will not get damaged. When you have brushed liquid onto every stain it is ready to be washed.
3
Step Three
Turn your washer on warm heat and do not add any detergent. Place the tablecloth into the washer when it is halfway full of water. When the cloth is placed in the water it should be submerged. Make sure that your tablecloth can be washed in warm water by checking the care label on the cloth. If it cannot be washed in warm water, follow the care label instructions for cleaning.
4
Step Four
After washing, the stains should be gone. If not try using a grease-fighting stain remover. Spray the stained area and let it soak for about 15 minutes. After soaking, wash the tablecloth again in warm water. If stains are still present consider trying your local dry cleaner. If the stains are gone let your tablecloth air dry. You can air dry your tablecloth by hanging it up outside or laying it on a clean, dry surface.
How to Remove Milk Stains from an Infant's Clothing
Introduction
First- time moms sometimes find it hard to get stubborn milk stains out of their baby's clothes. But don't consider those clothes ruined just yet. Even old milk stains can easily be removed if you follow these simple steps.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Pretreat the stained area. The best pretreatment spray is Dreft. It is available at all major stores, such as Walmart and Target.
2
Step Two
Be generous with the spray, especially if the stain is old or large. Allow the pretreatment to soak into the clothing and work for a few minutes.
3
Step Three
Wash the clothing according to its care label.
4
Step Four
Take the clothing out of washer and inspect the stained area. If stain is still visible, repeat Steps 2 and 3. If the stain is gone, dry as usual.
How to Remove Oil Stains from Carpeting
Introduction
Oil stains can be tricky to remove, especially on carpeting. The oil soaks into the carpet and adheres to the fibers. If not treated properly, the oil can become a permanent stain. Thankfully there is a very easy solution to oil stains that you may find surprising.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Use paper towels to blot the oil. Use a lifting motion and blot until no more oil comes off on the paper towel.
2
Step Two
Remove the stain by blotting it with small amounts of rubbing alcohol poured onto a small washcloth. The alcohol will absorb the oil and lift up the stain. You may need several cloths for a large stain. Be sure to blot, not wipe, as wiping can cause the stain to spread.
Tips & Warnings
- Test an inconspicuous area of your carpeting before using the rubbing alcohol to be sure the carpet can withstand the alcohol.
- Do not scrub as it can cause more staining.
- Take your time and use as little alcohol as possible to avoid spreading the stain.
How to Remove Water Stains From Carpet
Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer. His work has covered a wide range of topics, but he specializes in home maintenance and how to's. He has more than 500 articles published on the Web, as well as print magazines and newspapers in both the United States and Canada.
Introduction
Unfortunately, carpets stain. Wine, cola, blood and makeup can all leave hard to remove stains on a carpet. However, who would have thought plain old water could actually stain a carpet? Well, it can. Small amounts of sediment dissolved in the water can be left behind when a water spot dries, leaving a tell tale stain. Happily, in most cases, a water stain is easy to remove.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Synthetic Fibers (Nylon, Polypropylene)
Steps
1
Step One
Mix a solution of half water and half white vinegar. The vinegar is acidic and will neutralize the alkalinity of the sediment that is making the water stain.
2
Step Two
Moisten a clean white terry towel with the water/vinegar solution.
3
Step Three
Rub the towel gently over the water spot. The objective is to get the tips of the carpet fibers wet, not to soak the carpet itself.
4
Step Four
Allow the carpet fibers to dry. Hopefully the stain is gone or at least minimized. If the stain is reduced but still noticeable, repeat the water/vinegar process until the stain is gone. Allow the fibers to dry between each application.
Natural Fibers
Steps
1
Step One
Water stains on natural fibers may produce what is know as "cellulosic browning," a stain that can only be removed by a trained carpet cleaning technician.
How to Remove Grass Stains from Clothes
Introduction
If you have a gardener or kids in your family, chances are you've got grass stains in your laundry! Never fear - you can probably get them out with these easy steps.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Apply an enzyme pre-soak product or a teaspoon of liquid laundry detergent directly onto the stain.
2
Step Two
Rub the product vigorously into the stain and launder as usual.
3
Step Three
If the stain doesn't come out, refrain from putting the garment in the dryer, which can set the stain.
4
Step Four
Sponge the stained area with rubbing alcohol, removing as much of the stain as possible. Launder as usual.
5
Step Five
If the stain still persists, again refrain from putting the garment in the dryer.
6
Step Six
Treat with chlorine bleach if the fabric will tolerate it; otherwise, treat with color-safe bleach.
Tips & Warnings
- Before trying any method outlined here, test a small, inconspicuous area of the garment to make sure it won't be damaged.
How to Remove Hair Dye from Fabric
Introduction
Oops - that lovely new hair color doesn't look so great on your favorite shirt. If you act quickly you may be able to remove it - but beware: this is one of the nastiest stains there is.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Blot the stain with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol), using a clean, white cloth.
2
Step Two
Treat natural fibers such as wool or cotton with a solvent such as lighter fluid, turpentine or mineral spirits; again, use a clean, white cloth.
3
Step Three
Alternatively, treat synthetic fibers with hydrogen peroxide, using a clean, white cloth.
4
Step Four
If the stain persists, bring on the bleach. If a dilute solution of all-fabric bleach doesn't work, soak the garment in a a solution chlorine bleach in water, following directions on the bleach bottle. Note that this step could ruin your clothes; test a small, hidden area for bleach tolerance.
5
Step Five
Or, try a color remover, following directions on the box. Color remover will take out the fabric color as well as the stain, so you will have to re-dye your garment.
Tips & Warnings
- A clean, white cloth ensures that your stain-removal efforts don't pull any unwanted dyes out of the cloth and onto your garment; it also allows you to see how much of the stain you have pulled from the garment.
- Turpentine, lighter fluid and mineral spirits are flammable. Stay away from flame.
How to Clean Crayon From a Wall
Introduction
What is it about toddlers and crayons and walls? Instead of sharing those colorful thoughts of yours with the doodling toddler, do something really off-the-wall: Get little Sam or Susie to help you make the colorful wax disappear.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Gently scrape away the wax with a plastic spoon or spatula.
2
Step Two
Sprinkle baking soda on a damp white cloth.
3
Step Three
Give the cloth to one of your tots and have him rub the marks off.
4
Step Four
Dampen a sponge for the other one and have her rinse clean the residue.
5
Step Five
Really stubborn marks may require Mom or Dad to spray on a very grown-up product: WD-40 or other multipurpose lubricating oil.
6
Step Six
Wipe the wall clean with a damp towel.
How to Clean Terrazzo Stains
ntroduction
Terrazzo is a popular flooring and countertopping material with a marble-like finish. Two parts marble and one part cement are mixed together to make terrazzo. At the time of installation, additional marble chips are sprinkled on the surface and hence, at least 70 percent of the exposed surface is marble. The marble part of Terrazzo promises to be stain-resistant as it does not absorb most spills; but the cement binder, being permeable, absorbs stains easily. That is why it is important to take utmost care of terrazzo flooring. Here’s how to clean stains that are deposited on a terrazzo surface:
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Steps
1
Step One
Get rid of stains caused by alcoholic beverages by cleaning with hot soapy water. If the stain is persistent, consider dabbing it with denatured alcohol. If the stain still does not go away, place an absorbent cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain topped by an ammonia-saturated cloth.
2
Step Two
Remove blood stains by cleaning with cold, clean water. If the stain does not go away add a few drops of ammonia to the water. For stubborn blood stains, drizzle some lukewarm water on the affected area and sprinkle powdered malt on it. Let stand an hour and rinse.
3
Step Three
Soak a piece of absorbent cloth in a solution made of one part glycerin and three parts regular water. Put it on the area affected with coffee stains and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Alternatively, make a paste of hydrogen peroxide and calcium carbonate or abrasive powder and hot water and apply it on the stain.
4
Step Four
Remove oil and grease stains by gently cleaning the surface with warm water mixed with liquid detergent. You can also use household de-greasing agent to provide spot treatment. Paint stains can also be removed in a similar manner.
5
Step Five
Get rid of ink stains by cleaning with warm water mixed with liquid detergent. For older stains, mix two tablespoons sodium perborate and a pint of water and whip it to form a paste before applying it on the stain. For stubborn blue ink stains, try applying strong ammonia water solution, not directly on the terrazzo but on a layer of cotton.
6
Step Six
Place an absorbent cloth saturated in hydrogen peroxide directly over soft drink stains, followed by a cloth soaked in ammonia.
7
Step Seven
Apply a paste of abrasive powder and hot water on terrazzo surface to remove urine stains. For unyielding urine stains, try laying a cloth soaked in hydrogen peroxide directly over the stain, followed by an ammonia-saturated cloth.
How to Remove Burn Marks on Rugs
Introduction
If a cigarette or candle burn on your carpet has you steaming, here's a solution that will cool you off. While there's no way to make your carpet look brand-new, you can remove and replace the singed fibers so that you're the only one who'll know the marks were there.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate
Steps
1
Step One
Gently rub the burned area with lightweight sandpaper or steel wool to remove the melted fibers.
2
Step Two
Brush or vacuum the burned area to remove any ashes or loose singed fiber. If the burn marks are gone, you can stop here. If you can still see the burn, you'll need to remove and replace that area of carpeting (steps 3 through 8).
3
Step Three
Click to enlarge
Carefully cut out the damaged area with a carpet knife or a utility knife (see A), extending your cut at least 2 inches (5 cm) beyond the burn edges. Make sure you cut only the carpet backing--not your floor beneath.
4
Step Four
Place the cutout on a piece of paper. Trace with a pencil and cut out the pattern.
5
Step Five
Place your template on a carpet remnant. Or you can use carpet from an inconspicuous area, such as the back of a closet. Cut and remove the replacement carpet patch.
6
Step Six
Click to enlarge
Using a glue gun, cover the back side of the replacement carpet with carpet glue and set the piece in place. Rim the edges with glue to prevent the patch from being dislodged during routine cleaning or use.
7
Step Seven
Blend and seal the seams by rolling over the patched area with a carpet tractor (see B).
8
Step Eight
Allow the carpet to dry thoroughly before foot traffic resumes.
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